Everything you need to know.

An independent assessment of a used car before you commit to buying it. I come to wherever the car is, work through more than 220 checks covering engine, gearbox, brakes, suspension, bodywork, underside, electrics, diagnostics and paperwork, and road test it where that is possible. You get a written report with photographs of anything that matters and a clear verdict: buy it, negotiate, or walk away.

The same full 220+ point audit, just on a car you already own. It is for people who have bought something and then found the clutch slipping, a warning light coming on, or a panel that does not quite line up. I document what is actually wrong, with photographs and dates, so you have an independent record from someone with no stake in the answer. A report like that may help you raise the problem with the seller, dealer or finance provider, though your rights depend on how and from whom you bought the car.

A history check reads the paperwork. It tells you about outstanding finance, write-off and stolen markers, mileage records and previous keepers. What it cannot tell you is that the clutch is on its way out, or that the offside wing has been resprayed over filler. A database reads the records. I read the car. Most buyers want both, which is why a history check is included in every inspection.

No. The inspection is non-invasive and carried out where the car is parked, so nothing is dismantled and the car is not lifted on a ramp. I check the underside as far as it can be safely seen and reached. That means the report reflects the observable condition of the vehicle on the day. No inspection of any kind can guarantee that every hidden or intermittent fault will show itself.

No. You do not need to attend. I liaise directly with the seller to arrange access. Many buyers book remotely, particularly when the car is in another part of the country. If you would like to attend, you are very welcome to.

Yes. I contact the seller directly to arrange access, so they will be aware. Any reputable seller should welcome an independent inspection, because it backs up what they have told you about the car. If a seller refuses to allow one, that itself is worth knowing.

Typically 60 to 120 minutes on site depending on the car, plus a road test where that is possible. I do not rush it. Every point on the checklist gets covered properly, with no shortcuts to protect a schedule.

That is what you are paying for. Faults are documented clearly, with photographs and an assessment of how serious each one is. It gives you something concrete to take back to the seller, whether you use it to negotiate the price down, ask for the fault to be put right before any money changes hands, or walk away from the car altogether.

Cars, SUVs and light commercial vehicles, all makes and models, British, European, Japanese and American. Electric and hybrid vehicles too, with the relevant battery and high-voltage system checks carried out where they apply. If you are not sure whether something is covered, particularly a modified car, a classic or anything unusual, ask before you book and I will tell you straight.

Yes. I inspect cars wherever they are being sold, whether that is a private driveway, an independent forecourt or a franchise dealer. The process is identical regardless of who is selling.

It is for a car you already own that has developed a fault: a warning light, a noise, a leak, something that does not feel right. I diagnose it independently so you know what you are actually dealing with before a garage quotes you for the work. A straight answer before the repair bill.

Minor at £25 covers a quick look at one simple or obvious concern, with visual and basic checks and a short written summary. Standard at £45 suits a developing fault that needs proper investigation, and includes an OBD diagnostic scan, related systems checked, and a written report with recommended next steps. Major at £75 is for serious, complex or intermittent faults, with a full scan across the relevant modules, a road test where it is safe to carry one out, and a detailed report you can hand straight to a repair garage. Describe the symptoms if you are unsure and I will point you at the right one.

No, and that is deliberate. I do not sell parts or repair labour, so I have nothing to gain from telling you a job is bigger than it is. You take the report to whichever garage you choose.

£6.99 for a standalone background check on any registration: outstanding finance, insurance write-off and stolen markers, mileage and keeper verification, and a plain-English summary of what it all means. There is no physical inspection involved, so I can run it on a car anywhere in the country.

No. A full history check is already included in every pre-purchase and post-purchase inspection, so there is no need to pay for it twice. Buy the standalone check when you are not booking an inspection, for example to screen a car before you spend an evening driving out to view it.

Hertfordshire and Essex as standard, with surrounding areas considered depending on the travel involved. There is a postcode checker on the Prices page. Put in the seller's postcode rather than your own and it will tell you whether the car sits inside my usual patch. If it comes back as borderline, message me first and I will confirm before you pay anything.

Every car gets the same complete audit. There are no bronze, silver and gold levels, and nothing is held back for a dearer package. What changes is the price band, and that follows the value of the car, because what you stand to lose rises with it. Up to £7,500 is £99. £7,500 to £15,000 is £139. £15,000 to £30,000 is £189. Over £30,000 is £249. Post-purchase inspections use the same bands, based on what you paid rather than the asking price. Over £50,000, or anything specialist, modified or unusual, give me a ring and I will quote it directly.

A few things. A second vehicle inspected during the same visit is £55. A dedicated paint and bodywork survey is £45. A same-day priority report is £10. And if you would like a hand putting the findings to the seller, negotiation support is £10. Mention it when you book, or message me and I will sort it out.

Within 24 hours of the inspection, and in most cases the same day. It arrives by email with all findings, photographs of anything of concern, and my overall recommendation. If you need it faster because you are under pressure from a seller, the same-day priority report is £10.

More than 24 hours before the booked time, you get a full refund or a free reschedule, whichever suits you better. Inside 24 hours but before I have set out, it is a 50% refund or a free reschedule. Once I am on the road to the car, the time and travel have already gone, so no refund is due at that point. If I have to cancel, or weather or a road closure stops me getting there, you get a full refund or a free reschedule, your choice.

The fee covers my time, travel and the report, whatever the verdict turns out to be. If I find something that makes you walk away, the inspection has done exactly the job you paid for, and it has done it before the money left your account. Finding a fault is not a failed inspection. The full policy is set out on the Cancellation and Refund Policy page.

No, and that is the whole point. Car Audit is entirely independent. I have no commercial relationship with any dealer, manufacturer, finance provider or repair garage. My only obligation is to you. The assessment is honest even when it is not what you were hoping to hear.